We do not stock Aluminium Chlorhydrate & Aluminium Zirconium.

These are the active ingredients in conventional antiperspirants, which work by forming a plug in the sweat duct to block perspiration. Both have been found to be readily absorbed through underarm skin and they have been detected in breast tissue with repeated use. Studies have raised questions about their potential to mimic oestrogen and accumulate in the body over time. While the evidence is not conclusive, daily lifelong application to such a sensitive area gives us reason for caution. We stock only aluminium-free deodorant alternatives, using actives such as Magnesium Hydroxide and Zinc Ricinoleate - which we think work brilliantly.

We do allow Aluminium Oxide (Alumina) and Aluminium Hydroxide - Unlike the aluminium salts these are stable, inert compounds that are poorly absorbed through the skin. Both will be found in some make-up brands. 

• Aluminium Oxide - also known as Alumina - is commonly used as a gentle physical exfoliant and as an opacifying agent in mineral formulas. 
• Aluminium Hydroxide - This ingredient is allowed under COSMOS-standard Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard. It appears in some cosmetic formulations as a pH buffer and coating agent. Because these compounds do not plug sweat ducts or interact with the body and because absorption through intact skin is negligible, they consider them safe for use in cosmetics at approved concentrations. Where they appear in products we stock, it is as functional, low-risk ingredients - not as actives designed to be absorbed.

We avoid animal musks and animal fats. We are committed to cruelty-free formulation and do not support practices that harm animals in the production of cosmetic ingredients. Ingredients such as musk ambrette, civet, castoreum, and rendered animal fats fall into this category.

Note: Cholesterol, Lactose, Lanolin, and Keratin (with humane sourcing requirements) may be considered on a brand-by-brand basis with full transparency.

BHA - Butylated Hydroxyanisole

BHA is a synthetic antioxidant used as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It has been linked to cancer, skin irritation, and hormone disruption, and is classified as a possible human carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). It is banned or restricted in the EU.

Note: While this ingredient is banned in products sold in the EU/UK, we recommend checking products you purchase from other countries.

BHT - Butylated Hydroxytoluene

BHT is a closely related synthetic antioxidant and preservative. Although considered less concerning than BHA, it is toluene-based and has been associated with skin irritation. Some studies suggest potential links to developmental and reproductive toxicity.

Note: Safer, naturally-derived antioxidant alternatives are widely available.

Cyclic Silicones - including Cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), Cyclopentasiloxane (D5), Cyclohexasiloxane (D6), and Cyclomethicone - are persistent in the environment, bioaccumulate in the food chain, and have been linked to reproductive and developmental toxicity. D4 and D5 are restricted in rinse-off cosmetics in the EU.

Note: See a further note on Silicones below.

EDTA and its salts (Calcium Disodium EDTA, Disodium EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA, Trisodium EDTA) are chelating agents that bind metal ions to stabilise formulas. Our concern with EDTA is environmental. It passes through wastewater treatment largely unchanged, accumulating in waterways where it can bind to and remobilise heavy metals from sediments - making them more available to aquatic life.

DEA, TEA, MEA & ETA

Diethanolamine (DEA), Triethanolamine (TEA), Monoethanolamine (MEA), and related compounds are used as pH adjusters and emulsifiers. They can be contaminated with nitrosamines - compounds that are strongly linked to cancer. TEA in particular has been associated with allergic reactions and skin sensitisation.

Formaldehyde & Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives

Formaldehyde is a known human carcinogen and a potent skin sensitiser. It is rarely listed directly on ingredient labels; instead, preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde — known as formaldehyde donors — are used. Common formaldehyde releasers to watch for include: DMDM Hydantoin, Diazolidinyl Urea, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Quaternium-15, and Bronopol.

Note: Many EU countries already restrict or ban products containing these ingredients. We recommend checking products you purchase from other countries.

Used in skin-lightening products to inhibit melanin synthesis. It is a metabolite of the carcinogen Benzene, and prolonged use has been linked to skin irritation, paradoxical skin darkening (ochronosis), and increased risk from UV exposure. It is banned in cosmetics in the EU and many other markets.

Note: Safer, plant-derived brightening alternatives such as Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, and Vitamin C derivatives are widely available.

Preservatives that we have haven’t stocked since we opened in 2008, as they are among the most common causes of cosmetic-related contact dermatitis.

They were subsequently banned in the EU for leave-on products in 2016 & 2017. Potent skin sensitisers and allergens. In vitro studies have indicated that MCI and MI can be toxic to nerve cells. Now restricted in the EU to very low concentrations in rinse-off products such as shampoos, conditioners, and body washes.

The primary concerns are: unsustainable sourcing (derived from fossil fuels), and the risk of contamination with Polyaromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are linked to cancer. While cosmetic-grade petrolatum is refined to remove PAHs, we prefer plant-based alternatives (renewal resource) that do not rely on fossil fuel extraction. Plant-derived alternatives such as Candelilla, Carnauba, and Rice Bran Wax offer comparable performance.

Mineral oil, petrolatum (petroleum jelly), paraffin wax, and liquid paraffin - are all petroleum distillation byproducts and are therefore from a non-renewal resource. We do not stock these. 

Microcrystalline Wax - often found in 'clean beauty' products we do not stock this wax. It is a petroleum-derived wax produced as a byproduct of oil refining. Denser and more pliable than Paraffin Wax, its fine crystal structure gives it flexibility and adhesion - making it useful as a thickener, binder, and texture agent in lip products, mascaras, and balms. 

Synthetic Wax - is a hydrocarbon wax derived from fossil fuel sources, most commonly natural gas. It functions as a thickener, binder, and texture agent, and is sometimes blended with a small percentage of plant-derived wax. This appears in some clean beauty brands - please see the 'Need To Know' section below for more details.

Ultra-fine particles measuring less than 100nm - so small that they can behave differently to their conventional counterparts, both chemically and biologically.

The EU maintains one of the world's most stringent frameworks for nano-materials in cosmetics. Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/858 bans 12 nanomaterials from cosmetics - including nano forms of copper, silver, gold, and platinum - and restricts hydroxyapatite (nano) to specific oral care applications only. Zinc oxide (nano) and titanium dioxide (nano) remain permitted in sunscreens under strictly controlled conditions.

We apply a precautionary position on nanoparticles. Given the significant gaps in long-term safety data and the potential for unintended biological interaction, we do not permit nano-form ingredients in products we carry As the science evolves and non-nano alternatives develop, we will continue to review this position.

How to identify on pack: Look for [nano] in brackets after any ingredient name in the INCI list. We do not stiock nano ingredients.

Ref: Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/858 | EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex II & III | SCCS Guidance on Nanomaterial Safety Assessment (2023)

EU) 2024/858 | EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex II & III | SCCS Guidance on Nanomaterial Safety Assessment (2023)

Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isopropylparaben, and Isobutylparabem are synthetic preservatives that may mimic oestrogen in the body.

They have been detected in human breast tissue and linked to hormone disruption. Out of caution, we don’t stock parabens.

Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs) and other ethoxylated ingredients - including Ceteareth-20, Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Polysorbate-20, and most ingredients ending in '-eth' - are produced using Ethylene Oxide, a known carcinogen. The manufacturing process can leave behind residual 1,4-Dioxane, another carcinogen. PEGs may also enhance skin penetration of other potentially harmful ingredients. 

Note: We do not restrict the use of phenoxyethanol in place of parabens as a preservative. Read more about phenoxyethanol in the 'Need To Know' section below.

Found in some brands:

• Ceteareth-20 - Antipodes Vanilla Pod Hydrating Day Cream 
• PEG-8 & PEG-10 - Raeso Sun Milk Drops SPF50 
• Polysorbate-20 - Raeso Tranquility Water Activating Mist + MV Skintherapy Rose Hydrating Mist + Antipodes Baptise H20 Ultra-Hydrating Water Gel + Raeso Yellow Moonbeam Retinal Elixir + The Organic Pharmacy Rose Exfoliating Night Essence

Glycols We Do Allow:

Read more about Pentylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol in the 'Need To Know' section below.

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are a class of over 3,000 highly fluorinated compounds used in cosmetics for their water- and oil-repellent properties, especially in foundations, mascaras, and lip products.

Known as 'forever chemicals', they do not break down in the environment and accumulate in the body. They have been linked to cancer, hormone disruption, liver toxicity, and metabolic issues. Look out for ingredients containing 'perfluor-' or 'polyfluor-' in the INCI name.

PFASs are an area of growing regulatory focus in both the EU and UK.

Not present in the brands we stock.

Phthalates are plasticising chemicals used in cosmetics, primarily to make fragrance last longer on skin. Many phthalates are endocrine disruptors, and some have been linked to developmental and reproductive harm.

They are frequently not listed on labels, hidden instead under the catch-all term 'Fragrance' or 'Parfum'. Read more about Fragrance below.

Resorcinol is predominantly used in hair dyes and scalp treatments. It is linked to a range of concerns including allergic reactions, skin and eye irritation, and hormone disruption (it is considered an endocrine disruptor). It is restricted in cosmetics in the EU, where it may only be used in hair dye at low concentrations.

We do not stock Resorcinol.

SLS is a surfactant used to create lather in shampoos, cleansers, and body washes.

It can strip the skin's natural oils, disrupt the skin barrier and increase the absorption of other ingredients. It can cause irritation, particularly in those with sensitive or compromised skin.

SLS as a prohibited ingredient given its well-documented potential to irritate and compromise the skin barrier.

SLES is the ethoxylated version and carries the additional concerns associated with ethoxylation (see PEGs above).

The term 'Fragrance' or 'Parfum' on an ingredient label can legally represent a blend of hundreds of undisclosed chemicals - including phthalates, synthetic musks, skin sensitisers, and potential allergens.

Content Beauty requires full fragrance transparency from the brands we stock. If synthetic fragrance is used, brands must disclose constituent ingredients and we flag it on the details section of the website.

See Fragrance below for more details.

Appearing in a wide variety of consumer products, from colour cosmetics to body and talcum powders. Two key safety considerations surround its use: the potential for asbestos contamination, and the risk posed by fine particles entering the body through inhalation or perineal (genital) application of talc-based powders. We do not carry talcum powder or talc containing products.

IARC / WHO Classification (July 2024) In July 2024, the IARC declared pure talc as probably carcinogenic, classifying it in Group 2A — its second highest cancer risk level — based on evidence of ovarian cancer in humans and strong laboratory evidence that talc is carcinogenic to human cells.

Ovarian Cancer A landmark NIEHS study (published May 2024 in the Journal of Clinical Oncology) found a consistent association between genital talc use and ovarian cancer, with the risk being higher for women who used talc-based powder frequently or over long periods of time. NIEHS

Asbestos-Contaminated Talc Asbestos-contaminated talc is classified as definitely carcinogenic to humans. It has been linked to mesothelioma and lung cancer, particularly among talc miners and people with prolonged exposure to contaminated products.

Key Cancer Types Associated with Talc Exposure:

• Ovarian cancer - linked to perineal (genital) use
• Mesothelioma - linked to asbestos-contaminated talc
• Lung cancer - found in excess among talc miners
• Lymphoma & leukaemia - noted in some occupational studies

We do not stock talc. To avoid look for:  CI 77718 - Also known by its INCI name: Talc (Magnesium Silicate Hydroxide) CAS Number: 14807-96-6

A powerful industrial solvent commonly found in nail polishes and hair dyes, toluene is used to enhance finish, adhesion, and product durability.

However, its health profile raises serious concerns - it is toxic to the immune system, a suspected reproductive toxicant, and has been linked to birth defects with prolonged or repeated exposure. When used in enclosed spaces, such as during nail treatments, toluene vapour can be inhaled, presenting a significant inhalation risk for both professionals and consumers.

Under EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, toluene is listed under Annex III as a restricted substance, meaning its use in cosmetic products is subject to specific conditions and concentration limits. Additionally, under Article 15 of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, substances classified as CMR (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, or Toxic for Reproduction) in categories 1A, 1B, or 2 are prohibited from use in cosmetic products. 

Ref: EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex III | ECHA Substance Information (CAS No. 108-88-3) | REACH Annex XVII, Entry 48

Once widely used synthetic antibacterial and antifungal agents, triclosan and triclocarban were staple ingredients in soaps, toothpastes, deodorants, and a broad range of cosmetics. Their safety profile has since come under significant scrutiny. Both substances are persistent environmental pollutants - they have been detected in human blood and breast milk - and are associated with endocrine (hormone) disruption as well as contributing to the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria. In the US, triclosan is banned from over-the-counter consumer products.

The EU has significantly tightened controls on both ingredients under Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996, which came into force on 3 April 2024, citing concerns over their potential endocrine-disrupting properties.

Triclosan is now restricted to a maximum concentration of 0.3% in toothpastes, hand soaps, body soaps and shower gels, non-spray deodorants, face powders, blemish concealers, and nail products used before the application of artificial nail systems.

Triclocarban is permitted in all cosmetic products except mouthwash, at a maximum concentration of 0.2%, and must not be used in toothpaste for children under 6 years of age.

Unlike the aluminium salts these are stable, inert compounds that are poorly absorbed through the skin. Both will be found in some make-up brands. 

Aluminium Hydroxide - This ingredient is allowed under COSMOS-standard Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard. It appears in some cosmetic formulations as a pH buffer and coating agent. Because these compounds do not plug sweat ducts or interact with the body and because absorption through intact skin is negligible, they consider them safe for use in cosmetics at approved concentrations. Where they appear in products we stock, it is as functional, low-risk ingredients - not as actives designed to be absorbed. EWG Rating of 1.

Aluminium Oxide - also known as Alumina - is commonly used as a gentle physical exfoliant and as an opacifying agent in mineral formulas. EWG rating of 3 in liquid products.

Colour is at the heart of cosmetics - from the perfect lip shade to a luminous complexion finish. But not all cosmetic colours are created equal, and understanding where they come from matters for both your health and the planet.

Where Do Cosmetic Colours Come From? Cosmetic colours fall broadly into two categories: synthetic and natural origin.

Synthetic colours - the most widely used in conventional cosmetics - are predominantly derived from petroleum or coal tar, byproducts of the fossil fuel industry. Despite producing vivid, consistent shades at low cost, these dyes carry a range of health concerns. Certain azo dyes can release carcinogenic compounds known as aromatic amines, some have been found contaminated with heavy metals and benzidine, and many are linked to skin sensitisation and allergic reactions - particularly in those with sensitive skin or conditions such as eczema.

Natural & Mineral-Derived Colours - sourced from the earth and from plants. These include iron oxides and ultramarines - inorganic mineral pigments that are among the most widely used safe colourants in cosmetics - alongside plant-derived pigments such as beetroot, spirulina, and turmeric, and light-reflective minerals such as mica.

How to Spot Colours on a Label - Petroleum and coal tar-derived colours are identifiable on ingredient lists by the prefix "CI" followed by a five-digit number (e.g. CI 15850, CI 77491). On US-labelled products, they may also appear as "FD&C" or "D&C" followed by a colour name and number. The presence of "CI" alone does not confirm a petroleum origin - many safe mineral pigments (iron oxides for example) also carry CI numbers.

The EU/UK takes one of the strictest approaches to cosmetic colour globally. Under EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, only colourants explicitly listed under Annex IV may be used in finished products - a positive list approach that excludes many synthetic dyes permitted elsewhere, including in the US. Substances derived from coal tar containing more than 0.005% benzo[a]pyrene are prohibited outright under Annex II.

We ask that brands we carry avoid coal tar-derived synthetic colours wherever possible and prioritise mineral and naturally derived alternatives. Where synthetic colours are used, we require that they appear on the EU Annex IV permitted list and that brands can demonstrate the absence of heavy metal contamination.

• Natural & Mineral Colours: Iron Oxides (CI 77491, 77492, 77499) · Ultramarines (CI 77007) · Mica (CI 77019) · Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) · Plant-derived pigments.
• Synthetic Colours: CI numbers from the 10000–45999 range (synthetic organic dyes) · FD&C and D&C colour designations · Azo dyes.

Lanolin - a natural wax secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals, most commonly sheep. It is recovered during the wool-scouring process - sheep do not need to be harmed to obtain it - and is one of the most effective emollients in cosmetics, closely mimicking the skin's own lipid structure. Good at softening and protecting dry, compromised skin.

We stock products containing Lanolin where brands can demonstrate responsible sourcing and humane animal husbandry practices. Those with a known wool allergy should patch test before use.

Carmine (Cochineal) - a vivid red pigment derived from the dried and crushed bodies of the cochineal insect, native to Central and South America. Also listed on labels as Cochineal Extract, CI 75470, or Natural Red 4, it has been used as a natural colourant for centuries and is one of the most stable, non-fading red pigments available in cosmetics. It is an alternative to petroleum-derived colours. It appears primarily in lip products, blushers, and eyeshadows.

We stock products containing Carmine where it is clearly disclosed on the ingredient label. We recognise it is not suitable for those following a vegan lifestyle, and we highlight this clearly on product pages.

Beeswax (Cera Alba) - a natural wax produced by honeybees to construct their honeycombs. In cosmetics it functions as a thickener, emulsifier, and protective barrier ingredient - giving lip balms, lipsticks, and solid balms their structure while helping to lock moisture into the skin.

It is a renewable, biodegradable, and highly effective alternative to petroleum-derived waxes.

We stock products containing Beeswax where brands source from beekeepers who prioritise the health and humane treatment of their colonies. Beeswax is not suitable for those following a vegan lifestyle and we indicate this clearly across relevant products.

Glycols We Do Allow:

• Pentylene Glycol A plant-derived humectant sourced from sugar cane or corn, pentylene glycol helps attract and retain moisture in the skin while providing a lightweight, smooth feel. It also offers mild preservative properties, helping to extend the shelf life of formulations naturally.
• Propylene Glycol Derived from fermented plant sugars (such as corn or sugarcane), propylene glycol is a naturally sourced humectant that draws moisture into the skin, improves product texture, and enhances the absorption of active ingredients. It also functions as a solvent, helping to stabilise and blend formulations effectively.

An newer area of concern for both health and the environment, microplastics are synthetic plastic particles or polymers that enter the environment through everyday product use and the beauty industry is one of their most significant sources. 

They appear in cosmetics in two main ways: as intentionally added particles (such as plastic microbeads used as exfoliants, or glitter made from PET film) and as functional polymers used for texture, film-forming, and wear-resistance (such as Nylon-12, PMMA, Carbomer, and Acrylates Copolymer). Both types pose issues. 

Microplastics pass through wastewater treatment largely intact, accumulating in rivers, oceans, and soil, where they are ingested by marine life and enter the food chain. They have now been detected in human blood, lung tissue, and placentas. The scale of the problem is significant - the beauty industry contributes thousands of tonnes of plastic microparticles to the environment each year. The EU's REACH restriction is progressively banning the most problematic forms between 2023 and 2035; the UK is expected to follow. 

At Content Beauty, some brands have opted to use some of these ingredients to improve function and longevity on the skin. While we work to avoid them across all products, if you are looking to avoid them we suggest shopping, 3rd party certified products (natural & organic) and checking the details section of products pages where we flag if any of these ingredients have been used. The majority of the brands we stock do not use them and actively work with our brand partners to identify and phase out synthetic polymer ingredients where safer, biodegradable alternatives exist.

Film-Formers, Texture Agents, Binders 

Acrylates Copolymer - used in foundations, mascaras, and sunscreens to improve wear and water resistance. 

• Ilia Clean Line Liquid Liner
• Kure Bazaar Studio Top Coat (Long Wear)
• Kure Bazaar Therapy Protective Base Coat 
• Kure Bazaar Therapy Protective Top Coat.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer - a thickener and texture enhancer common in skincare. 

• Rms Beauty Re-Evolve Radiance Locking Primer.

Carbomer - widely used as a gelling agent; technically a synthetic polymer. Sometimes used in ‘clean beauty’ brands.

• This Is Silk Power Up Concentrate
• Raeso Tranquility Water Activating Mist 
• The Organic Pharmacy Neck Chest Firming Lotion
• Rms Beauty Cashmere Matte Eyelights Eye Shadow
• Rms Beauty Kakadu Luxe Cream

Polyester-8 - found in cosmetics e.g., lotions, mascara

• Josh Rosebrook Nutrient Day Cream SPF30 (+Tinted)

Polyurethane-33 / Polyurethane-35 / Polyurethane -15 / Polyurethane-67- film-formers in foundations and long-wear make-up.

• Rms Beauty Re-Evolve Radiance Locking Primer
• Kure Bazaar Nail Polishes

Polyethylene (PE) - is the most common plastic found in cosmetics. In waxy form it gives lipsticks, mascaras, and balms their structure and slip; as fine particles it acts as a physical exfoliant in scrubs and cleansers. It is also used as a binder and viscosity agent across many product types. 

• Ilia Skin Rewind Complexion Stick
• Ilia In Fill Micro-Tip Brow Pencil
• Kure Bazaar Stella (Glitter)
• Ilia Clean Line Gel Liner 

Trimethylsiloxysilicate - a silicone-based film-former in long-wear products. 

• Ilia Eye Stylus Shadow Stick
• Kosas Soulgazer Gel Eyeliner
• Kosas Hotliner
• Ilia Clean Line Gel Liner.

Glitter & Shimmer

Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) - the plastic used in conventional cosmetic glitter and some shimmer particles.

Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA) - used in loose powders, eyeshadows, and highlighters for a soft-focus effect. 

• Rms Beauty Back2Brow Powder

Thickeners & Emulsion Stabilisers

Nylon-12 / Nylon-6 - used in face powders, eyeshadows, and lip products for a silky texture

• Odacite SPF50 Flex-Perfecting Mineral Drops Tinted Sunscreen
• Odacite SPF50 Sheer Mineral Sunscreen Drops
• Kosas Air Brow

Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) - used in primers and foundations for slip and smoothness. No products include this ingredient.

Pentylene Glycol - A plant-derived humectant sourced from sugar cane or corn, pentylene glycol helps attract and retain moisture in the skin while providing a lightweight, smooth feel. It also offers mild preservative properties, helping to extend the shelf life of formulations naturally.

Propylene Glyco - Derived from fermented plant sugars (such as corn or sugarcane), propylene glycol is a naturally sourced humectant that draws moisture into the skin, improves product texture, and enhances the absorption of active ingredients. It also functions as a solvent, helping to stabilise and blend formulations effectively.

A petrochemical/synthetic preservative widely used in cosmetics and personal care products - including skincare, haircare, makeup, and fragrances - to prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mould and extend product shelf life. It can also occur naturally in small amounts in green tea, though commercial-grade phenoxyethanol is typically laboratory-synthesised. While regulatory bodies broadly consider it safe at permitted levels, some concerns have been raised.

Exposure to phenoxyethanol has been linked to reactions ranging from eczema to severe allergic responses, Public debate has also touched on speculative links to endocrine disruption and reproductive toxicity, though current scientific evidence does not support these claims at approved cosmetic concentrations.

Under EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, phenoxyethanol is listed under Annex V as a permitted preservative in cosmetic products. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) considers phenoxyethanol safe for use as a preservative at a maximum concentration of 1.0%

To avoid look for alternatives approved under 3rd party certifications bodies, such as COSMOS.

• Potassium sorbate
• Sodium benzoate
• Levulinic acid
• Anisic acid (p-anisic acid)
• Benzyl alcohol (from natural origin)
• Tocopherol (vitamin E) as an antioxidant

A synthetic polymers derived from petroleum, used in cosmetics as a thickener, binder, and gloss agent. Its viscous, tacky consistency makes it particularly common in lipsticks, lip balms, mascaras, and long-wear foundations, where it adds shine, prevents separation, and improves wear.

While safety assessments have found it to be non-irritating at cosmetic concentrations, our primary concern is environmental: Polybutene is non-biodegradable, derived from non-renewable fossil fuel sources, and contributes to synthetic polymer accumulation in the environment.

It is not currently prohibited under EU Cosmetics Regulation, though its status as a persistent synthetic polymer places it within the scope of the EU's broader restrictions on intentionally added microplastics. We avoid it in favour of plant-derived alternatives..

Natural Alternatives

Plant-based alternatives are available for most of the functions polybutene performs, including beeswax, carnauba wax, castor oil, and hydrogenated vegetable oils - all of which are biodegradable, renewable, and increasingly well-suited to clean beauty formulations.

Our Approach

Given its petroleum origin, non-biodegradable nature, and contribution to microplastic pollution, we discourage the use of polybutene in products we carry and encourage brands to explore naturally derived functional alternatives wherever technically feasible.

The below products currently include these ingredients.

Polybutene

• Ilia Overglaze Hydrating Lip Gloss
• Kosas Soulgazer Intensifying Gel Eyeliner

Polyisobutene

• Ilia Clean Line Gel Liner
• Wonderblush La Laque Tinted Lip Oil
• Kosas Soulgazer Intensifying Gel Eyeliner
• Ilia Lip Wrap Reviving Balm
• Rms Beauty Re-Evolve Radiance Locking Primer
• Ere Perez Moringa All-Beauty Crème

INCI name: Polybutene | CAS No: 9003-28-5 Also found as: Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Ref: EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 | Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/2055 (microplastics restriction) | CIR Safety Assessment | EWG Skin Deep

Commonly referred to as "quats" - are a broad class of synthetic chemicals found across a wide range of consumer products. They appear most frequently as antimicrobial active ingredients in disinfectant and cleaning products, but are also widely used in beauty and personal care, primarily as conditioning and antistatic agents in hair care formulations. Quats are generally identifiable by their naming convention - most contain "...onium chloride" within their INCI name.

While concerns around quats include links to skin sensitisation, potential hormone disruption, and their contribution to antimicrobial resistance, their use in cosmetics is not blanket prohibited. We take a considered approach: we do allow their use as antistatic and smoothing agents where genuinely necessary, currently there are limited  effective natural alternatives for this specific function. As formulation science evolves and natural alternatives become more widely available, we will continue to review this position.

Quats found In products we stock:

Stearalkonium Chloride - is derived from stearic acid, a fatty acid that can be obtained from plants (such as coconut or palm oil) or animal fats.

Stearalkonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride as used as antistatic and smoothing agents across hair masks and shampoo / conditioners.

• Rahua Enchanted Island Conditioner
• Rahua Classic Conditioner
• Rahua Voluminous Conditioner 
• Rahua Hydration Hair Mask
• Rahua Founder's Blend Scalp and Hair Treatment
• Rahua Haircare Leave-In Treatment Light
• Rahua Control Cream Curl Styler
• Rahua Heat Protectant Shield
• Innersense Pure Inspiration Daily Conditioner
• Innersense Hydrating Cream Daily Conditioner 
• Innersense Hair Renew Soothing Conditioner
• Innersense Color Radiance Daily Conditioner
• Innersense Hair Renew Soothing Conditioner
• Innersense Clarity Daily Conditioner
• Innersense Detox Hair Mask
• Innersense Repair Mask
• Innersense Hydrating Hair Mask
• John Masters Volumizing Conditioner 
• John Masters Deep Moisturizing Conditioner 

Behentrimonium Chloride

• Rahua Hydration Conditioner

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

• Upcircle Hair Serum
• Innersense Repair Mask
• Less is More Tangerine Curl Balm
• John Masters Scalp Conditioning Shampoo 
• John Masters Leave In Conditioning Mist
• John Masters Nourishing Hair Mask

Linear Silicones such as Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Trisiloxane, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, and related compounds are used to give products a smooth, silky feel and to fill in texture in skin and hair products. While linear silicones are considered low-risk for direct human health, they do not biodegrade and accumulate in the environment.

We do not allow silicones in skincare, body or haircare, however we do allow them in make-up and SPF where they serve a texture and smoothness purpose, holding mineral pigments in place and reducing stickiness.

They are designed to sit on the surface of the skin and are generally less likely than smaller cyclic silicones to enter the blood and lymphatic systems in large quantities.

Dimethicone

• Odacite SPF50 Color Balm
• Ilia Eye Stylus Shadow Stick
• Raeso Sun Milk Drops SPF50
• Ilia Clean Line Gel Liner
• Ilia True Skin Serum Foundation

Phenyl Trimethicone

• Ilia Concealer new

Dimethiconol

• Raeso Sun Milk Drops SPF50

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

• Raeso Sun Milk Drops SPF50
• Odacite SPF50 Color Balm
• Ere Perez Arnica All-Cover Pot

Trisiloxane

• Ilia Eye Stylus Shadow Stick

This is a hydrocarbon wax derived from fossil fuel sources, most commonly natural gas. It functions as a thickener, binder, and texture agent, and is sometimes blended with a small percentage of plant-derived wax. This appears in some 'clean beauty' brands and products:

• Ilia Eye Stylus Shadow Stick
• Kosas Soulgazer Gel Eyeliner
• Kosas Hotliner
• Ilia In Fill Micro-Tip Brow Pencil
• Ilia Sketch Hydrating Lip Crayon
• Ilia Lightshift Cream Highlighter
• Ilia Sunshift Cream Bronzer

Why have some brands changed the waxes they use?

At smaller volumes, plant-derived waxes are almost always the better choice. At significant scale, the most defensible position is to prioritise certified, traceable plant waxes - such as Rainforest Alliance-certified Carnauba or domestically sourced Rice Bran Wax - over synthetic alternatives, while acknowledging that certification and supply chain transparency are essential.

At larger volumes there may be an argument for a brand to switch to synthetic wax as we have seen several brands do as they grow, including many new ‘clean beauty’ brands

The case for Plant-Derived Waxes at scale - Candelilla, Carnauba, and Rice Bran Wax are renewable, biodegradable, and free from fossil fuel concerns. However, as demand scales, so do the pressures: Carnauba is harvested almost exclusively in northeast Brazil, and large-scale demand has been linked to land use pressure, supply chain opacity, and fair labour concerns. Candelilla faces similar issues in Mexico. Scaling increases the risk of unsustainable harvesting practices unless supply chains are carefully managed.

The case for Synthetic Wax at scale - Synthetic wax has a consistent supply, a stable price, and a lower agricultural land footprint. Some lifecycle analyses suggest that highly refined synthetic waxes produced from natural gas can have a lower carbon footprint per unit than tropical plant waxes that require land clearing, water, and long-distance shipping - though this depends heavily on the energy source used in production.